Recommended Ordnance Survey Maps - Outdoor Leisure Map 7 - South Eastern Area (1:25,000) and Outdoor Leisure Map 5 - North Eastern Area (1:25,000)
Start and End Point - Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel Car Park (SW-286061). Pay and Display cost ??.
Distance - 9.4 miles (15.1 kilometres)
Time - 7 hours
Maximum Height Achieved - 2959 feet, 902 metres above sea level
Total Ascent - 3514 feet, 1071 metres
Accommodation - The Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Great Langdale (015394 37272). There are many hotels and B&B's in Ambleside of varying quality and also nearby at Elterwater. Advance booking is strongly recommended. There is a youth hostel at Ambleside and another at Elterwater. There is also a popular National Trust Campsite near Old Dungeon Ghyll. See Accommodation Guide
Public Transport -
By Rail - Stations at Windermere and Penrith
By Bus - Regular services from Ambleside
Tourist Information Office - Ambleside - 015394 32582
The description and pictures are from Sunday 20th September 1998. The day was dry and sunny after the cloud dispersed during the morning.
Having seen nothing but my boots the last time I walked this route, I set off in high spirits from my home in Lancashire. I was with my son Aaron, Paul Belsten and his son Richard. The early morning sunshine on our journey up the M6 was heart warming, but the good feelings evaporated as we left the M6 towards Kendal. The blue skies were replaced by thick cloud. The weather forecast talked of early morning mist, but this was not mist! Yet another trip to the Crinkles seem destined to a view-less yomp. The crinkles are not a place I like to walk in mist. Laden with small rocky outcrops, following the compass is an art on these fells. My worries were unfounded however, as the clouds were burned off by the unseasonably strong sunshine. As the cloud rolled off the hills, we even got to see the famous 'brocken spectre'. The pictures on this page were taken without filters and they are real - the sky really was that blue!
The Crinkle Crags are rocky and involve some hard walking in places. The route was done clockwise in order to ascend the bad step rather than descend it. It is easier than it looks, but there are two even easier routes around it for the more cautious walker. Bow Fell is the spectacular encore with a tricky descent down Rosset Gill.
The views from these fells are incredible. They tower over the Langdales, and provide truly wonderful views of the Scafells. Helvellyn, Skiddaw, Blencathra all vie for the camera on a clear day.
One word of warning concerns car-parking space. You need to be early and by 9am on a weekend, it is full. There is a bigger car park at the New Dungeon Ghyll but this adds an extra mile on to the journey.
Enjoy!
P.S. All photographs are point and click. Click on them for a larger, more detailed image. Some of these images are available at 1024x768 resolution, suitable for wallpaper. Just click the link from the main photograph.
Map
From the car park, head back over the bridge and back to the main road. Turn right and carry straight on (South West) through the gate when the road turns 90° left. Follow the track, over the stream and through to Stool End Farm. Go through the farmyard and head left. The ground rises a little to a gate. Go through the gate and head out to Oxendale Beck. To the right goes to Mickleden, whilst to the left is to the Band and Oxendale Beck. Go left following the well-marked path. Ignore the path right up to the Band and follow the path parallel to the stream along Oxendale Beck. After approx. 400 yards, cross the stile at the sheep enclosure and head down the path to the footbridge across the stream.
Photo. The footbridge at Oxendale Beck is the start of the ascent.
Cross the footbridge and follow the path right (South West). The ascent begins. The path is upwards, always upwards, steady and a slog. Continue the heading for Browne How along the well-marked and well-maintained path. Browney Gill opens up to the right as the heading moves through South to South East. The gill is quite dramatic as the path steadies its climb to a more level plane. Take care as the path crosses a rocky scree before eventually, and thankfully, arriving at the small scramble across the beck. Follow the path until a distinct path right appears (GR266041). If you wish to visit Red Tarn, I am assured that it is well worth the few hundred yards further South, but the mist gave us little encouragement this day. Therefore, Head West across the stream and up to Great Knott. At this point in the walk, we were beginning to doubt the appearance of the sun at all. An overcast sky was gratefully received for the climb up to Great Knott but, selfishly, we all yearned for the weather to obey the forecast now that the height had been gained. Great Knott is passed within 800 metres from crossing the stream at the intersection of paths.
Head North West from Great Knott up to the first of the Crinkles. It was at this point that the cloud gave way to the sun, and the view opened to reveal a simply stunning panorama. Nothing quite prepares your soul for THAT feeling when the clouds dissipate. The blue sky and stunning panorama is made all the more vivid to the eye by the very doubts that question their existence as the mist masks the mind as well as the landscape. What a view I missed the last time I trudged this path.
The first Crinkle gives a choice of path. You may choose to use none of the paths and scramble up the fairly easy crag, as my son did. A small drop down (North) reveals a gully down Great Cove to Crinkle Gill.
At this point, the 'Brocken Spectre' showed itself to us. Once thought to be mystic, it still is a terrific sensation. A personal rainbow right around your head as the sun is eclipsed from the mist. No one can see your rainbow until they get close to you. This usually causes both rainbows around each of you to merge into one.
At this point, the Scafells are simply irresistible against the blue sky. The Crinkles offer some of the finest views of Lakeland's giants as well as superb walking in their own right. What comes next is testament to that.
Keep heading North until you begin to lose height. Ahead of you, across Mickle Door lies the 'Bad Step' (GR250050). Mickle Door offers a dramatic view down to Oxendale along Crinkle Gill whilst the path ahead may cause concern. The 'Bad Step' is simply a couple of boulders that have become lodged in a narrow gully. The 15 feet scramble is relatively easy with just a little exposure (pictured), but there are two easier routes. The more common route is to the left of the 'Bad Step', but a lesser known one is to the right. Having seen a man take his large dog along this path, I would assume it is suitable for all, albeit exposed.
The Crinkles now become a series of knuckles. Rocky outcrops provide a meandering line of mini peaks that simply must be bagged, one by one. The faces of the rocks can be slippery though, so care is needed.
The very distinctive Bow Fell stands majestically in front of you (North). Looking back, the Crinkles are look very steep and rugged. Before the descent to the Three Tarns, there are some wonderful views to be had. The view over Hell Gill into Oxendale seems to be the popular choice for lunch as the pictures prove. In and around this area, provide excellent opportunities for photographs, with the tarns providing the perfect foil.
Keep the bearing North down to the Three Tarns, with Bow Fell in the sights. Again, this point provides a perfect photographic opportunity, and also gives a choice of routes. If you prefer, you can start the descent here and choose either to descend via Hell Gill (East, then South East) back to Oxendale Beck and Stool End Farm, or by descending The Band (North East the East/South East). Both descents are safe, with care on the slippery stones. Walking poles will certainly be of assistance if you have them.
Bow Fell, however, was on the menu today. This ascent of this hill seems arduous after the demandingly rocky Crinkles have taken their toll, but it is well worth the effort. The flat crags are simply amazing, not repeated anywhere else in the Lakes. The elevated summit provides excellent 360° views. Head North past Bow Fell Buttress then West down to Ore Gap (GR241072). Turn right (North) before Esk Pike and down towards Angle Tarn. The views of the Hanging Knotts and back to Bow Fell are the backdrop to the 'speech bubble' shaped tarn. Head (South East) to the sharp point of the tarn, cross the stream and continue in the heading, over the hill to Rossett Gill.
Rossett Gill is quite a steep descent over varying sizes of stony scree. Walking poles are certainly an advantage at this point if you own a pair, but not essential. Head down the Gill, taking great care until you can safely move to the right. Pick up the path, which cuts into the rock on the right side. This leads you naturally onto the path that takes you into Mickleden Beck. The journey down is fairly tough on the knees, but safe with care. Cross the footbridge at the foot of Stake Gill, then head along the flat Cumbria Way back to Old Dungeon Ghyll. You finish up behind the Car Park, and go through a gate to the rear of the hotel. Don't forget an odd glance to the left along the Cumbria way to see the climbers hang perilously on Gimmer Crag and the other Langdale crags. You will finish up at the car eventually! Very tired, feet desperate to shake free those boots; the pint at the Old Dungeon Ghyll is deserved.
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Author - Antony Towers - 7th October 1998. I hope you enjoy this walk either virtually or in reality as much as I did. However, do not blame me if you get lost or have an accident. Your safety is your responsibility. Always use a map, compass and be equipped for the conditions. Conditions can change very quickly, especially at altitude. Check the weather conditions before setting off and always be prepared for Mother Nature.
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