Recommended Österreichische Karte 187 BMN 5712 Bad Sankt Leonhard (1:25,000 V) and Kompass 219 Wander-und Radtourenkarte - Lavanttal Saualpe - Koralpe (1:50,000)
Start and End Point – Offnerhütte Roadside car parking
Distance – 6.648miles (10.70 kilometres) not including gradient.
Distance including gradient – 7.397 miles (11.91 kilometres
Time - 5 hours (but this depends on how long you stop in the huts)!!!!
Maximum Height Achieved - 6821 feet, 2079 metres above sea level
Total Ascent - 1978 feet, 603 metres
Accommodation – see St Andrä im Lavanttal / Wolfsberg im Lavanttal
I regularly stay here - I highly recommended it - Almhaus Hubi
Saualpe lies to the east of Lavanntal (Lavant Valley). At its summit is the Ladinger Spitz, standing at 2079 metres above sea level. Saualpe offers easy walking with terrific views over Lavanttal and also the higher mountains of Kärnten and Slovenia. The walking experience here is typically Austrian, with knowledge that there are Hütte's (translation: Mountain Huts, serving food and a whole range of beverages) along the way. It means you can pack light! You will often hear the sound of cowbells chiming and smell the fragrant pine lifting across the hills from the trees below. The wild flowers are in abundance and so too is the wildlife. You will hear and see the crickets, watch the Eagles soar, the odd tiny lizard scramble for cover. You may even see the odd snake (although very rare - I have seen just 2 in 12 years, and these were both rushing for cover from the road as the car approached). The hills and mountains in this part of Kärnten are less trodden than their English counterparts, meaning a more peaceful walking experience, even at weekends. The prices in the Hütte's are also very good value.
The Lavant Valley lies between Saualpe to the east and Koralpe to the west, in the south-east part of Kärnten (Carinthia). It takes its name from the river Lavant that flows through it, out towards the Drau, in the south, before rushing onwards through Slovenia. The scenery here is terrific and the people are wonderfully friendly. Lying in the south of Austria, within reach of Slovenia and Italy, the weather tends towards it southern counterparts rather than that typically experienced in the more visited Tirol. The summer days can be hot and dry. As is typical in mountainous areas, thunder and lightning can also be a frequent visitor. As one used to the English version of a lightning storm, I am mesmerised at the immense power of the alpine version. It is an incredible and breathtaking experience. Tourism hasn't arrived here yet in any significant way but the people around these parts are extremely hospitable and proud. There are many Gasthoffs dotted around, serving excellent food and drink. The produce is more than likely local and always fresh. There is an abundance of accomodation, from simple private rooms through to well-equipped hotels. Whatever you choose, the prices are incredibly cheap. Check out the local websites highlighted for further details. The main town around here is Wolfsberg, where you will find a picture postcard castle (from the Hapsburgs) overlooking the whole area. Further south along the river lies Sankt Andrä, with its two beautiful churches and then Sankt Paul, with its Benedicktine Monastry. Also of note is Griffen, with its castle ruins perched on the hill overlooking the town. In addition to walking, Lavanntal offers excellent cycle paths, both along the valley and also throughout the maze of mountain tracks over Saualpe and Koralpe. The cycle path along the Lavant is also ideal for rollerblading, and indeed there are several specialist parks along its route. There are also several outdoor swimming areas, including the Wolfsberg outdoor swimming pool and the Sankt Andraer See (a well-equipped lake). You will also find lots of other things to see and do, including pony trekking, shopping, paragliding, castle tours, model plane flying (Waldrast), weekend music events in outdoor marquees etc. Check the highlighted websites for further information.
There is a bus servce from Wolfsberg centre. For car drivers, from Wolfsberg centre, head west through St Michael and upwards towards Lading. Go through Lading and continue upwards. At key points there will be plenty of signs to help you. Basically, follow the signs pointing to the Wolfsberger Hütte. At the Gießlhütte (Giesslehuette), which is a highly recommended place to eat, the road switches from tarmac to gravel. Don't worry about this. It's reasonably normal and gravel is more winter resistant. Just keep going upwards following the signs for the Wolfsbergerhütte. You will pass the Zechhütte on your left. Keep right here. The road opens out on your left and then eventually a small track on your right takes you to the Offnerhütte. There is enough parking around the track (before the gate) and roadside for between 15-20 vehicles. If there is no room, head a litte higher up the main track to the Wolfsbergerhütte and you will find another parking place. You could also start at the Polzhütte, where there is plenty of parking if need be. Parking everwhere around here is free.
The weather here can change quickly and sometimes dramatically. You need to make sure the weather forecast is good for walking. Also, make sure you pack a warm top and your waterproofs,even on hot days.
Tip: Click on the photographs for a larger, more detailed image. They are all size 1600 by 1200 and are ideal for computer desktop wallpaper.
From the main road, take the track up to the Offnerhütte, go through the gate and follow the track (north). Just in front of the Offnerhütte, there is a sign directing you left (north west) up the hill, alongside the stream. The paths all around this route are well marked. You will see the red/white/red of the Austrian flag marked on stones and trees to guide you along the way. Some of them also show the route number (334) The path climbs upwards first of all, alongside the stream and then opens out into open mountain meadows. In the distance you can clearly see the distinctive Wolfsbergerhütte, but it will be around an hour or so before you actually reach it!
The well marked path naturally turns left (south), still heading upwards. It's almost inevitable that you come across cows, with traditional austrian cowbells ringing! As you gain height, the views get better and better.
The fields are full of colourful alpine flowers, some of which I have pictured.
On the way up to the Wolfsberger, there is an interesting memorial, and underneath it is a wooden panorama platform, affording good views of the Lavant Valley. As you can see, on this day the clouds in the valley were yet to be burned away by the sun, giving spectacular views above them to the mountain of Koralpe. The Wolfsbergerhütte is now within a few strides. We chose the traditional fayre of Brettlejausen (Mixed meat and cheese platter, with dark bread) and 'Most' (Apple Cider - I like it better 'gespritzed' - with fizzy mineral water). There were quite a few other choices of food and beverages (both hot and cold).
It is a relatively simple task to get to the summit of the Saualpe - Ladinger Spitz. Leave the Wolfsbergerhütte (west) and go through the gate. Follow the path 308/342 directly upwards, with the stream on your right. the path gently curls left before straightening near the top. Branch right (north) and you reach the Zingerlekreuz within a few metres. The feature of a cross at the summit is traditional in Austria and is instead of the summit cairn, more typical in Britain. The view from the Zingerlekreuz clearly shows the direct route up from the Wolfsbergerhütte. From now on the views are fantastic on all sides of the Saualpe, going right up to the Hohetauern range, the highest in Austria (includes the Grossglockner).
From the Zingerlekreuz, head north, following the fence. The fence in fact takes you all the way to the Saualpe summit of Ladinger Spitz. Take your time and enjoy the 360 degree panorama. It's a gentle climb all the way to the top. At the summit you can sign the visitor book, located in the black box, attached to the cross. There is also a fascinating panoramic engraving, highlighting all the mountains within view, together with their heights.
From the Ladinger Spitz, head east towards the Sandkogel. The maps do not show this path, although it is clearly signposted. The picture above shows the fence leading all the way down to the Sandkogel, before turning sharp left (north) and down the hill over the dry but spongy heather. Notice that the new marker colours are red-yellow. The view to the Gertrusk (part of the Ladinger round walk) are wonderful. At the end of the fence, you reach the path coming down from the Kaiserofen. Turn right (east). Within a few minutes, you are given a choice to head left to the Ladingerhütte or straight-on to the Offnerhütte. Head left (north-east). You then find a large rocky outcrop, which is where the path descends left around it. We found a few bullocks that we gave a wide berth, because we had our german Shepherd Rhuno with us, and subsequently struggled to pick out the markers. It is well marked though, and we were soon easily back on track. From this point, the path over the descending meadow becomes distinct again and leads you to the welcoming Ladingerhütte.
The Ladingerhütte proved to be a popular watering point, but all good things must come to an end, and you head on your way to the Offnerhütte and the car. The path is directly through the Ladingerhütte grounds. Pop over the stile and rejoin the yellow/red marked path. We found that the stile lead to a pig enclosure and an electric fence, although we all negotiated it with ease (even Rhuno) questioning its usefulness! The path gets much narrower than that experienced previously. It also becomes a little rockier in places as it ventures in to forested areas, although nothing worrying. Take care to watch your footing as the odd patch of greenery at the side of the path can hide a hollow (yes, this is from experience - although it could have been the overly long stopover at the Ladingerhütte working its magic)! Again, we saw even more wild flowers, of which we photographed. Catching us by complete surprise was a black grouse which sprang out in front of us. Eventually, the forested path gave way to open meadowland and occasional stream, before opening out into a wide-open downhill section (pictured). Take care to pick out the marker stones, although the eventual goal is the path across the stream at the bottom of the hill (again pictured). It's now a case of following the track to the Offnerhütte, and after a brief stop (if required) back to the car.
This walk and pictures are protected by copyright©. Reproduction in whole or in part by any means is prohibited without the prior permission of the author. If you wish to use this document, then contact me. I would also like to hear your comments and thoughts. If you use this document for your walk please give me feedback (good or bad). If you have very good quality photographs and a good narrative and want them on these pages, contact me also.
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Author - Antony Towers – 17th July 2005. I hope you enjoy this walk either virtually or in reality as much as I did. Your safety is your responsibility. Always use a map, compass and be equipped for the conditions. Conditions can change very quickly, even at low levels. Check the weather conditions before setting off and always be prepared for Mother Nature.
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