Recommended Österreichische Karte 188 BMN 6709 Wolfsberg (1:25,000 V) and Kompass 219 Wander-und Radtourenkarte - Lavanttal Saualpe - Koralpe (1:50,000)
Start and End Point – Hipflhütte Car Park. This is a huge car park used in the ski season. It's free of charge.
Distance 9.2 miles, (14.8 kilometres) not including gradient.
Distance including gradient 10.35(16.66) kilometres
Time - 5-7 hours depending on stops in the Hütte's
Maximum Height Achieved - 7021feet, 2140 metres above sea level
Total Ascent - 3054 feet, 931 metres
Accommodation – see St Andrä im Lavanttal / Wolfsberg im Lavanttal
I regularly stay here - I highly recommended it - Almhaus Hubi
see also: Koralpe.com
Koralpe is a mountain for all seasons. In winter it's the skiers taking centre stage (of which I'm one of them) enjoying the extremely quiet slopes at unbelievably cheap prices (and no I'm not a travel agent!!). In Springtime, the snow melts away and the many rare alpine flowers adorn the pistes. It's perfect for walking and mountain biking!
Koralpe is not, in fact, a single mountain but a massif with the highest point being the Großer Speikkogel at 2140 metres high. The Koralpe expanse stretches from the Lavant Valley in the east of Carinthia to the hills of Western Styria, the Packsattel pass in the north (also called the 'Four Peaks' - Vier Tore), to the river Drau in the south (where Austria meets Slovenia).
This mountain is a hiking paradise. The views are sensational across its wide and open fells. There really is something for everyone here, from gruelling Mountain biking climbs from the Lavant valley, short hikes, long arduous walks, ice climbing in winter, etc etc. Add to that the pretty hütte's (mountain huts serving beer, wine, local food and drink) means that the more adventurous could quite easily plot a high-altitude pub crawl if need be.
Situated in southern Austria, this mountain enjoys warmer weather than its Tyrolean counterparts. The Adriatic climate is a bonus in summer, meaning the ski season does not often extend beyond the Easter period. Don't be fooled however. At 2140 metres high, the weather here can change in an instant. Spectacular summer lightning shows often grace the area, as the warm air from the valley rolls up the slopes and clashes with the cooler air. I once witnessed a night with 2000 lightning strikes. In the mountains these things don't half bang - it is usually an incredible show! Morale = be prepared for the weather, even on sunny summer days. Check the forecast and keep an eye on the horizon. The locals are also remarkably accurate in their weather predictions in these parts.
I've fallen in love with this area. It's a wonderful mix of superb walking, skiing, alpine fresh air, beautiful weather and the Lavant Valley hospitality. The local people are ever so friendly. The atmosphere in many of the mountain huts is also wonderful. Quite often you will hear the sounds of singing and accordion's on approach. Accomodation in these parts is really cheap but also very comfortable and clean. The hotels and gasthoff's are very reasonable and usually always include breakfast. The pensions and private houses offer even better value. There are plenty of choices in the websites I have quoted above. Don't expect everyone to be fluent in English however - so a quick look at a phrase book and the command of a few words to help you decipher a menu, get a beer etc will be useful.
On the mountain itself, you are well served. Typically the food is local and freshly cooked. You will find many speciality dishes such as Kaerntner Noodles (Cottage cheese and mint filled pasta), Wiener Schnitzel (pork/veal in breadcrumbs - usually overhanging the plate), many pork dishes and cold mixed meat platters ('Brettljause'). Eier schwammel (egg mushrooms) grow wild on Koralpe and feature in many dishes. These mushrooms cost a fortune anywhere else and you often see Italian cars packing bucket loads in their boots even though there are restrictions as to how much you can pick. In terms of alcoholic beverages, the Austrians are masters! Locally produced Schilcher (a rose wine made from grapes grown on the Styrian side of the Koralpe) is a speciality wine. Cool and refreshing at altitude - that does get better after each glass is drunk. 'Most' (naturally fermented apple cider - pronounced 'must') is also delicious (a firm favourite of mine!). Local schnapps (no explanation needed!!) is also avalailable and has probably been produced on the premises. Many of the huts were originally started by farmers making extra cash as they tended their cows in the summer months.
Tip: Click on the photographs for a larger, more detailed image. They are all size 1600 by 1200 and are ideal for computer desktop wallpaper.
Koralpe is situated on the eastern flank of the Lavanttal (Lavant Valley). There are two roads up the mountain on the Lavant side, to the skiing area car parks. For the walk below, take the Waldrast road right up to as far as it goes to the ski area carpark. The Hipflhütte is located on the right hand side of the large parking area. This road begins in St Stephan, near Wolfsberg. It is the 'major' road up the Koralm and it is on a bus route.
Another route up, is the Goding road from St Ulrich (near Eitweg) which takes you up to the Goding Car-Park on a different side of Koralpe. This route is not as well used and does turn to gravel for a section - so don't be alarmed! Gravel is much better to drive on in snow. The walk takes you past both parking places so you can, in effect, start from either side. The bonus on the Godinger side is the Godinger Huette, run by Sepp and Sieglinde. For me this is well worth a visit and is the friendliest hut I've ever visited, with great food and a superb atmosphere.
Both roads up are kept clear of snow in winter-time. You will need chains on occasion. I've driven up both sides regularly without issue - just had to use chains a few times - which work superbly well. If unsure, use the busier Waldrast side.
This is the easiest section of the walk, affording wonderful panoramic views over the Lavant Valley and beyond into Slovenia and Italy. Stand outside the Hipflhütte with your back to it. In front of you you will see a tarmac path (see the first picture, above), used as a service road to the Radar stations. To the right, clearly signposted is the aptly named 'Panoramaweg zur Godinger Hütte' (Panorama route to the Godinger Hut - see the picture above). This is the one to take.
It's pretty difficult to get lost along here. Just keep heading straight - 'immer geradeaus' as they say in these parts!. At an intersection of paths, keep going straight-on and do not take the lesser path to the left (see picture above). I like taking my time and admiring the views along here - they are tremendous. On the left you are always flanked by the mountain, but on the right the mountain drops away revealing many photo opportunities. Approaching the Goding car park, take the left path to the ski booth. This then comes directly up to the dual-level car park. You now have a choice to ascend via the grassy ski-slope, or pass by the Godinger Hut. If you fancy it, a 2 hour detour can take you to the Fluder Waterfall, which in winter is used for ice climbing.
Starting at the Godinger Hut, take the grassy track upwards. The paths are well flagged, as you can see from the pictures. The tree lined path opens onto the ski-slope. Keep following it and soon it becomes steeper, in fact very steep in places, but still grassy underneath. I can't help myself from imagining flying down it in Winter on a pair of ski's! All routes do lead upwards on this open slope even if you do not strictly keep to the paths. However, keeping to them is relatively easy in clear conditions due to the number of painted waymarkers, in their distinctive red-white-red of the Austrian flag. Take your time and enjoy the views behind you when taking the odd breather (or in my case many).
You will start to see the ski lifts to your left as the path opens onto the ski slope proper. Don't worry about losing your markers from now on. We stopped at the rocky outcrop (any excuse I know) but found a very interesting memorial for the Moutain Rescue members.
Keep going upwards and eventually the Schutzhaus comes into view (or at least the tarmac track which takes you there).
For us, the timing was perfect for a brief stop. We enjoyed a wonderful bite to eat and a drink.
From the Schutzhaus, do not take the tarmac track. Instead to the rear is a small path that heads upwards. As you can see from the pictures, the weather was looking decidedly dodgy, but all the reports and also the locals said it would get better. They were proved right.
The smaller path eventually brings you out just below the radar stations, which you either find horrid or spectacular. The latter is definitely my choice, and I think the photo with the dark clouds in the backdrop emphasise just how spectacular. Go past the radar stations and the summit is in sight. As is typical on all Austrian summits, the Großer Speikogel is crowned with a huge cross. Attached to this one is a visitors book, for you to read and sign.
From the summit, you can see where you will be walking next. With your back to the Lavant valley you can see the wide ridge walk via the Seespitz towards the Grillitschhütte. In fact, as you descend towards the Seespitz, there is a choice of paths to the Grillitschhütte. One path drops into the valley and the other stays high. You can see them on the signpost above. We follow the second sign from the top along the path 505/579.
If you like, you can skip the short hike up to the top of Seespitz and stay left, walking around it. The path along here is wide, clear and dry. In winter, it is also easy to follow as it is marked with long wooden poles, to ensure visibility even in deep snow. It's quite a favourite with Nordic Skiiers. As you can see from the photographs, the views are remarkable and you can see Slovenia in the distance. It is really a simple case of following the path almost due north. Eventually you arrive at a carved wooden signpost (as if it isn't easy enough) that guides you the rest of the way to the Grillitschhütte, 45 minutes away.
The path starts to wind north-east and after a rocky outcrop it drops down almost due north to the Grillitschhütte with its unique conical roof and white walls. I have to say at this point that I do enjoy the Schilcher here and they have some very nice Fruit Schnapps. I have purchased the odd bottle of Blueberry schnapps to take back with me on occasion (medicinal of course)!
You can choose to skip the drop to the Grillitschhütte and instead head direct to the Großhöllerhütte (pronounced Grosshuellerhuetty). Whatever your choice you will be on the same track, heading west. On the left, the valley extends back up to the Seespitz and the Großer Speikogel. All around you now is grassy meadowland, interspersed with white rocky stones - something out of the ordinaryl for anyone used to walking purely in the UK. Keep to the well-marked path and the beautiful Großhöllerhütte comes into view.
I enjoy it here at the Großhöllerhütte. Quite often I also make just a short walk here via the Pomswasserfall for lunch. It is one of my favourite huts on this mountain at this time, and it is open only between Spring and Autumn. I started walking on this mountain around 1992, and at that time, the hut was not in existence. Its present owner used to run the Eiblhütte, which has since moved into private ownership and, although marked on the maps, is no longer open to the hiker. The Großhöllerhütte is only accessible on foot, but is usually one of the most popular destinations. The atmosphere here is great and the food and drink are both excellent!
The next part of the journey takes us back to the starting point. However, there is still the prospect of the wonderful Poms Waterfall to visit on the way. Leave the Großhöllerhütte via the stile over the fence at the front of the hut. i.e. if you leave the front door of the hut, in front of you is a fence. Turn left and follow the fence along. Within 15 paces you will see the stile (clearly seen on the picture showing the hut). Hop over it and follow the clearly defined path that takes you down the slope, gradually turning from a westerly heading through to a southerly one. Pretty soon as you drop down you will see a sign pointing to the Hipflhütte (pictured). This is where we are going, and according to the sign, it's just 50 minutes away! The open path starts to head into the trees as you go through another stile, before dropping down to the waterfall itself. You will not have a problem finding it - just follow the noise!
Be careful to stay right, keeping the waterfall on your left as you descend via the steep path. You can visit the various ledges along the way which is highly recommended, as you can see from the above photographs. At the bottom, there is a bench to sit on. It's really nice just sitting there and relaxing. There is something serene about water, despite the vigour at which it is falling. Quite often you will see birds 'slap' the water on the ledges, no doubt drinking the water as they do so.
From here it's a case of getting back on the path 592 which brought you past the waterfall. Take care in following it through the woods. It opens out into a leafy meadow, before becoming engulfed again in the trees, all the time remaining clearly marked. The stream rejoins you to your left and eventually you see a wooden bridge (pictured) which you need to take. Again the paths are clearly signed as you now find yourself on a railed track. It's a simple case of following it around, all the time watching for the signs pointing you back to the Hipflütte.
As you can see from the photo's, the track is wide and used by the loggers, who manage the forests on the mountain. Keep following it, but watch for the signs. In the far right picture above you need to take a left. It's clearly marked, so you should have no problem. Going straight on is not a disaster. You will finish up on main Koralpe mountain road just above Gasthoff Waldrast - but it does mean a road detour back to the car park. Assuming you do take the right path (!), you arrive at a stream. Cross it, then carry straight on. You reach the Koralpe road and directly across is a path that takes you straight to the Hipflütte car park to complete the walk.
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Author - Antony Towers – 20th July 2005. I hope you enjoy this walk either virtually or in reality as much as I did. Your safety is your responsibility. Always use a map, compass and be equipped for the conditions. Conditions can change very quickly, even at low levels. Alpine weather is notorious for its unreliability. In summer, violent thunderstorms can often present themselves quickly. Check the weather conditions before setting off and always be prepared for Mother Nature.
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