Kilimanjaro Diaries

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2nd Sept 2006 - Crazy day of travelling.
Up at 3am UK time to catch a plane to Amsterdam with Paul Belsten, then on directly to Kilimanjaro. Incredibly, the luggage arrived on cue at the other end, which was one less worry, and our driver was ready and waiting at the airport in the evening. The journey from Manchester was great all the way and we even had 'video on demand' on the 777 from Schiphol. 50 minutes after boarding the jeep, we were checking into the Springlands hotel.

3rd Sept 2006 - Lazy Day.

Woke up to a decent breakfast at the Springlands, although Paul didn't like it that much. Spiced tomatoes, frankfurters, some bacon, omelettes to order, mango, water melon, honey, jams, toast, tea, powdered coffee and milk, brown beans, sliced fried potatoes, pancakes - what more could you want? The hotel lost our itinerary that they were meant to photocopy, probably in anticipation of trying to charge us for included extras such as meals and the like. This was a really boring day, where the wait was starting to make us both anxious. I was worried about my troublesome achilles and hoping that it would stand up to the days ahead. We took the free time to organise and, in my case, re-organise (several times) our rucksacks. Paul hired a huge duffel-bag for 5 USD from the hotel hire shop. We tried a trip into Moshi but the hotel bus operated on African time, so we didn't quite get there. For the rest of the time, we simply lazed around the pool watching people land back from the mountain looking rather worse for wear!

At 5pm we congregated outside around the tables with all the other people making the walk the following day and filled in the forms we were given. It appeared to be a bit chaotic in all honesty, but somehow it managed to hang together. Our names were called and we split off to meet our guide Joseph who immediately came across as a wonderful person.

First lesson in Swahili:
Jambo = Hello!
Habari? = How are you?
Hakuna Matata = No Problem/OK

The clouds cleared in the evening and we saw Kilimanjaro in all its glory from the front door of the hotel. Impressive!

Day 1 - 4th Sept 2006 - First day proper!

How not to organise the start of an expedition :-) Eager, we were ready and waiting at 8:15am anticipating setting off at 8:30am. At 8:45 we were still there ready and waiting. All around us was a flurry of activity as the buses were loaded with all the supplies needed for the next few days. At 9:30 'ish' we finally departed in 'The Love Shack' with a Swiss couple who were also making the walk. 'The Love Shack' van was excellent! Equipped with fur everywhere, a chandelier and even a small tv - we were in tears as we reversed out from the hotel drive. 2 minutes later, we were stopped as Paul had to go back and check-out! Seems like the hotel don't take any risks and wanted to be paid before we departed. Finally we were moving again....but not for long....5 minutes later we stopped for a last-minute shop apparently - we didn't need anything! At last though, we were off! (Oh no we're not - it really was the stuff of Panto's)...2 minutes later we were stopped again but this time for fuel. At last, yes really we were finally away....we were really moving, travelling through village after village, through open landscape, then beyond through banana plantations. We turned left and headed up the hill towards the shrouded Kilimanjaro and the Marangu Gate.

Upon arrival at the gate, you have to sign-in before you venture into the National Park. Again we waited an age. 11:40am and still we waited. There was time to make a trip to the toilet, visit the shop and receive our lunch box from Joseph. At last we signed in, and at 12:20 we were finally underway!

It was quite a surprise to see such a well maintained path. Quite wide and made of a dark red gravel the path was only for use by the tourists and guides. The porters took a different route up during this stage. It's quite a gentle, steady incline all the way with just the odd steeper section, stepped adequately where needed. There is nothing difficult this first day other than watching out for being snagged by the odd tree root. Luckily for us, the ground was very dry on our 730 metre ascent over the 9 kilometre trek to the Mandara Hut. After 1 hour and 20 minutes we branched slightly off-route to the picnic tables which signalled lunchtime - and what a lunch it was: 2 pieces of chicken; 2 eggs; bread roll; vegetable pasty; soft cake; orange; banana and a soft drink. We met a wonderful Australian couple who were also making the summit. They had been backpacking through the southern African countries for the last 3 months before deciding to try the summit of Kilimanjaro. Dressed in jeans, carrying all their own stuff and having just bought their boots the week before, they were tremendously cheerful and confident. Both Paul and myself somehow came to the conculsion that they were destined to make it. It took us 35 minutes to munch through all of the food and get underway again. During our lunch, we watched the porters carry the amazing loads, as they walked by. Those guys are something else.

Rejoining our own path, we continued to gradually ascend through the rain forest. After a while, the Porters path merged into our own as hard soil replaced the grit underfoot. In the rain forest you feel completely shut off from the outside world. It really is all encompassing. Joseph was great, explaining the plants (wild Gladiola Watsonioides, Impatiens Kilimanjarica, Lobelia Gibberoa etc). We were now getting to know Joseph better, and him us. He's just such a nice person, always smiling and nothing is ever too much trouble.

More Swahili:
Asante - Thankyou
Asante Sana - Thankyou very much
Karibu - You're welcome
Karibu Sana - You're very welcome

One point worth mentioning is that the path is so good, it is ideal for walking shoes rather than boots. I wore my boots, and as i noted earlier I was worried about my right achilles. I adjusted my boot about 3 times in all on the way up, but decided that I would wear my shoes the following day.

The short trip was over and we landed at the Mandara Hut (Altitude 9000 feet, 2700 metres). 3 hours and 15 minutes after setting off from the Maragu gate (including the lunch stop). In truth, it really isn't a test for the legs - but serves its purpose well for altitude acclimatisation I suppose (but I'm no expert).

The huts were busy, and instead of the wooden huts, we were given beds in the original Mandara Hut. It wasn't great to be honest. We occupied 2 of 4 beds in the central room, from which there were 2 adjoining rooms with 10 beds each. We fairly quickly came to the conclusion that we would have an interrupted night as 22 other people would be filing past us to use the toliets. Within 20 minutes after arriving, we were brought hot washing water and dettol, quickly followed by tea, coffee and popcorn. I've never eaten as much in such a short space of time - we'd be back looking like a couple of bloaters at this rate!

It's now 20:00 as I write this, dark outside and a mist has descended around the Mandara camp. We've had supper: soup; spicy meat; spiced veg; cabbage; potatoes; avocado and banana; tea & coffee. It's been harder work eating everything than it has been walking so far. I've also phoned home on the mobile. It's been the first time I've ever cleaned my teeth by torchlight and camelbak water, all without a mirror.

Day 2 - 5th Sept 2006 - Out of the Forest.
As predicted, we both had a poor night's sleep during the night. I slept on and off the entire night and woke up really tired at 6am. The traffic visiting the toilets was fairly steady the entire night. I remember waking to find that the mist had penetrated inside the room and coated the walls in a damp film. After cleaning the teeth and washing in the hot water provided, it was breakfast time. A vast breakfast of porridge, toast, honey, jams, cheese, mini omelette, sausage, tomato and cucumber. The waiter dropped off the boiled water and we popped in the purification tablets. In hindsight, I would have carried an extra bottle of pure water from the hotel instead of the foul tasting purified stuff.

After packing the bags, we started on our way to Horombo around 8am. Within minutes, the forest was left behind replaced by the lichen covered Erica Arborea. We chose to take the small diversion to the Maundi crater and arrived there some 20 minutes later. We got our first glimpse of Kibo and Kilimanjaro from the crater - it was a long way off! From the crater we saw the land up to Kenya and some Lakes - great view. We rejoined the path up to Horombo which was again realtively easy going. I'd switched from the boots to my walking shoes and that was proving a great decision. Gradually we ascended, gently but steadily relentless. Always onwards, always upwards, Hakuna Matata. The alpine moorland, revealing a totally different landscape to what I know, opened up and the weather frequently changed from mist to sunshine and back again. Views of Mawenzi and Kilimanjaro came and went. The porters shared our path today, giving us the first chance to appreciate their speed and strength. I cannot praise them enough. Here's us, dressed in all the latest gear - but they rocket past us, carrying 4 times as much, in tennis shoes and track-suit bottoms. Joseph again was the perfect guide - ever patient and wonderfully knowledgeable, still taking time out to explain the names of the weird plants and trees we came across (Asteraceae, Lobelia deckenii, Giant Senecio).

Yet more Swahili:
Ndiyo - Yes
Hapana - No
Bwana - Sir/Master
Please - Tahfadhali

We seemed to make good time, even though it was a slow steady slog, making the lunch point at 11:15am. Laid tables greeted us in the wonderful sunshine, occupying a nice panoramic position. We were soon tucking into our packed lunch of bolied egg, tomato and sweet vegetable sandwiches (tasted refreshing and wonderful), cucumber, banana, orange, cake, biscuits, soft drink, tea and coffee. Neither of us ate it all - there is simply too much food. 20 minutes later and we were off again. A much quicker section this time. The Giant Senecio became more numerous as we approached the Horombo Huts, eventually arriving at 1pm. The whole walk of 6 miles (just over 9.5 kilometres) including lunch took 5 hours. Joseph told us that there may be Jackals on the site. There were certainly white necked crows aplenty.

Horombo Camp is great. At 12,200 feet, 3720 metres, it's a junction for a few routes and is therefore a busy place. Here you can buy bottled water as well as beer and the infamous Coca Cola - for which this route gets its nickname presumably. Flushing toilets and running water are also a bonus together with the decent 'A' frame huts, sleeping 4 people. We had a good hut, looking up a stream, which we shared with a couple of German lads - Wolfgang and Sven from near Dortmund. I bought a coca-cola, whilst Paul regretted buying a beer and poured half of it away (Guilt!!!). I had a slight but nagging headache, coupled with the first signs of a dodgy stomach, neither of which were a great sign. After a quick wash I changed to clean clothes - which felt great as dust was starting to get into everything. It was in all our clothes, hair, up the nose - the lot. We took the opportunity to treat Joseph and the team to beers and then took our own opportunity to have a bit of a rest.

Lala Salama - Sleep Well/Good Dreams

I didn't, Paul snored. I have to admit though that I felt fine as we went into the large hut for the evening meal. With the amount of people on camp, it was pretty tight for space in there. It was a great meal though (yet again) of mushroom soup, pancakes, rice with vegetable sauce, chicken fillet in breadcrumbs and green beans. All of the team came to meet us. It was superb. We had a lot of fun chatting with Joseph and his brother Christopher. Both of them are so continously happy that you cannot help smiling with them. One good (or bad thing dependening in your perspective) is that you meet people coming down who were on the summit the night before. We met a lad from southern England who had made it to the top despite not preparing whatsoever. He had partnered another fellow from the U.S. who had also made it, but who was now struggling. Whilst we were sitting eating, he ran outside after not being able to stomach any food. Food for thought, so to speak.

We left the hut and witnessed totally clear starry skies. Joseph enthusiastically pointed towards towards the twinkling lights of Mosh Town (Moshi) way down below. Kibo and Kilimanjaro was visible in the moonlight but the smell of grass smoke wafted through the camp from fires lower down on the mountain slopes. The big moon allowed us to return to the hut without the use of the torches, which was great because we'd forgotten them! The night was very cold and the ill-fitting door ensured the first test of the sleeping bags. The Diamox showed its usual side effects and both Paul and I soon left the hut for our first outdoor bathroom visits around 12:30. Only 1 hour sleep so far.

Day 3 - 6th Sept 2006 - Acclimatisation Day.
I finally drifted off around 2am but awoke again at 5am, this time not getting back to sleep. The adjoining room to us was obviously on an earlier schedule than we were and that meant a loud awakening. 4 people in a small hut is a challenge - so the noise was somehow understandable. Still, none of us moved until around 7.25am. The hot water arrived just after a bathroom visit, but it's a feat to stand outside semi-naked washing before the sun has had a chance to warm the morning air. I'm beginning to think that I need to pop an Immodium, as my stomach is hot and gurgling. Breakfast was again good: toast; honey; jam; porridge; cucumber; tomato; spanish omelette; and some meat and vegetable sauce.

At a leisurely 10:00am we set-off for the short acclimatisation trip to Zebra Rock at 4000 metres. Paul initially had a slight headache, but it receded after he drank water. The route there starts on the same path that will take us to Kibo the next day, before branching right along the higher path. It really didn't take long to get to Zebra Rock. Up upon arrival, and not being content with simply taking a picture of the rocks, both of us decided to climb to the top. Joseph waited below and took the photo of us. We then climbed a further 15 minutes above the Zebra Rocks to the top of Sebloe at 4200 metres, where we paused for around one hour. The grass-fire smoke from the previous day still hung in the air, but we could clearly see the lower path to Kibo which would be our journey the following day. Without the smoke we would have been able to see Stellar Point and the ascent from Kibo to Gilmans Point much more clearly - which was a real pity. We took a circular route back to Horombo and one hour later we were back on camp, 500 metres lower than we had just been.

On the way down, Joseph was his usual wonderful self, pointring out the flowers again and again including the everlasting helichrysums. A quick wash and then lunch which consisted of meat and vegetable pasty, chips, green beans and of course tea and coffee. I thought I needed an Immodium but decided to wait and make a decision later. Neither of us were struggling with the altitude. The Diamox was making the fingers and toes occasionally tingle - but nothing more. After sorting out the clothes for Kibo and the summit I realised that I should have brought more changes. With all the time available, it was a good point for an afternoon rest - I needed at least some sleep. Again, Paul seemed to manage to drift off, but I didn't manage a minute. It's getting quite frustrating now.

Sitting down for the evening meal in the communal hut, I had little appetite. The soup went down ok but I ate little of it. Pasta next with a fish sauce, not my favourite at the best of times, and again I ate little. Joseph visited me and asked what was wrong. I was obviously being watched! I didn't feel great to be honest. We played cards with Wolfgang and Sven for a while, and despite not feeling the best I at least managed to win, before retiring to bed. I took an Immodium, but no Diamox. I had already taken 2 half tablets earlier in the day and Joseph advised me to keep it at that. Paul stayed with his usual 2 Diamox a day. The night was long. very long. Paul went for the usual around midnight, which I duly followed (so as not to disturb the others too many times). The clock ticked slowly. I remember 4am before I think I finally drifted for about an hour. If I wasn't hot, I was cold. My sleeping bag was really snug, but I often found myself almost trying to climb out of it at times to cool down, before getting too cold and then climbing back in. I couldn't seem to win. Every time I closed my eyes my mind was on Kibo and what was beyond. I have no idea why. I tried everything to sleep, including imagining I was back at home in bed. That didn't work. I tried the elevator trick, going down 1 floor at a time to an increased state of sleepiness. Nothing. I stayed painfully awake.

Day 4 - 7th Sept 2006 - Onwards to Kibo.
The morning routine was almost identical to the previous one. I didn't really eat too much breakfast, managing just a a few spoonfuls of porridge and honey, a sausage, cucumber and tomato. Paul helped out and ate the fried egg. The immodium had kicked in though and my stomach was feeling much better. We'd packed extra bottled water so that we didn't need the boiled variety at Kibo.

We got off to a reasonably late start and I admit to plodding slowly up the path to Kibo. Again the path was excellent, being wide and well defined - but incredibly dusty. The incline was steady and easy manageable, again in walking shoes rather than boots. In wet weather I suppose my choice would have been different - but in the dry dust, my feet felt wonderfully fresh. That apart, I felt rough and it was noticed by Paul. No headaches or anything like that, just really sluggish and sickly. The lack of sleep and probable dehydration from the dodgy stomach was perhaps taking its toll. I should have taken the immodium much earlier - damn.

We had lunch on the rocks so to speak. A rocky outcrop, full of cute gerbil-like rodents and white necked crows that milled around feeding off our scraps. From me they had plenty. I managed little apart from a piece of chicken and a couple of sweet pastries. Plodding on again, I must have been a frustration for Paul. By the time Kibo came into view I felt a little light-headed but that was all. This apparently is a relatively normal effect. On the way we met the Swiss couple coming the other way. Unfortunately it proved a little too much from Kibo for them and neither had made it. We also later met the Australian couple (we never did remember their names). They were just coming down from the summit after both making it - we knew it! Both were chatty and remarkably cheerful. It was heartening and I have to admit it made me grow in confidence. The dust was choking, as it circulated from being disturbed by the traffic and many people were developing the 'Kili-Cough', including Paul, but Kibo drew closer and the path ascended a little more steeply before finally we arrived, 15,450 feet (4703 metres) up Kilimanjaro.

It had taken a good 5 hours, mainly down to my sluggishness to walk the 6 miles (9.65 kilometres) from Horombo. Upon arrival we entered the fray that was developing. The allocation of beds to people ratio was proving an issue. There were simply too many people to fit and therefore we found ourselves on two mattresses on the floor in amongst 12 other normal beds (see photo above). The dining table was shoved over to one side to accomodate the mattresses, but interestingly it didn't prove to be much of a problem. It turned out that Wolfgang and Sven occupied two of the 12 beds, with the rest being taken up by a large party from Middlesex University. Paul and Sven went for a short climb higher up to try to walk high/sleep low. I tried to rest. No luck. Paul had no issues with the evening meal, but I only managed a soup. I think I was beginning to worry Joseph. I wasn't feeling bad though - just lacking an appetite. Looking around, there appeared to be quite a few people feeling the effects, prompting a huge stroke of fortune for me also. It turned out that one member of the Middlesex University team was a doctor. He was giving everyone a check-up and also gave me a quick check. I was clocking out at 107 beats a minute at rest. I knew I was anxious, although I had no idea why. Having seen the route up to Gilmans a little earlier, I didn't have any nerves about that. In fact it didn't look as bad as half of the hills in the Lake District (ignoring the altitude of course). I just couldn't seem to settle. Was it the lack of sleep or earlier stomach issue? Was it altitude sickness? I suppose I'll never know. The doctor gave me a tablet to settle me down. It worked instantly and I was soon sound asleep. I slept for at least 3.5 hours and awoke to a hive of activity that was passing me by. The earplugs had drowned out the noise so well, Paul was having to shake me to wake me. It was 11:30pm, I was awake.....and raring to go. Amazing.

Day 5 - 8th Sept 2006 - Kilimanjaro Summit.
I was looking forward to the climb. I really couldn't wait. It was the best I'd felt for the last 2 days. We seemed to pack at the speed of light, dressing one bottle of water in a thick sock, the rest in the insulated Camelbak. Dressed in all 5 layers, a quick tea and powergel (really effective but awful to taste) and I was raring to go. 0:20 am and we were away. There were plenty of groups already snaking up the scree in front of us, their torches twinkling in the darkness.

Poli, Poli - Slowly, slowly

Excited, we started off at a cracking pace. Too fast, and totally inappropriate. Joseph soon stopped us and took control. He parked us at the rear of a German group consisting of 22 people and we kept to a very slow and steady pace. Poli, Poli. I found it hard to stay so slow. Being used to ascending much faster (albeit at a much lower altitude in the English Lake District) it really was a struggle to go step-by-step. A beautiful full moon illuminated the mountain, allowing the head torches to remain switched off. No doubt about it, this bit was a slog. The first real walking we had encountered. Poli, poli. People were coming back down past us. They were struggling. I felt for them all. I was hoping it wouldn't be our turn. We were forced to rest and take on water at regular intervals by Joseph. My Camelbak was holding up to the cold. I remembered to blow back as I finished drinking, to clear the insulated pipe of water and hopefully prevent it freezing. So far so good. At each rest, I popped a powergel (yuk again, but still effective). I felt fantastic at this point. We weren't allowed to stop more than a few minutes in order to prevent us getting cold. I wasn't cold. Anything but. We made another stop at Hans Meyer cave, where Joseph gave us sweet black tea. It tasted wonderful. We were now half-way to Gilmans Point. As we started onwards again, a few people were clearly struggling. The pace was much slower as some people in the party in front stopped more regularly for rests. We passed them but maintained our pace. Poli, poli. The climb is unforgiving. I was glad we had done the screes on Great Gable several weeks before. My legs felt great and the pace was not impacting them whatsoever. Forever upwards. One step, then the next, heel to toe only. No faster. There were few in front now, if any, so Christopher, our assistant guide (and Joseph's brother) was now setting the pace. Poli, poli, heel-to-toe. Paul needed us to slow down a little, but didn't want a break. It was now half steps. The scree gave way to rocks and we clambered amongst them. I remember banging my head at one point and Joseph worrying needlessly. I just didn't see the overhang that was all. We were using our head torches now as we walked in deep shadow and darkness. It was hard going. The air was thin and it was getting colder. My body was like toast, but I could now feel the pinch of cold in my fingertips. Paul was also feeling the cold in just his fingers. Joseph was issuing encouragement and counting down the minutes to Gilmans. 10 minutes to Gilmans. 5 minutes to Gilmans. Poli, poli. Step by step. We were there!

The pictures above were taken on the descent but show the landscape that we negotiated in the pitch-black, save for our torchlight.

It was way to early to catch the sunrise and there was no way Joseph was going to let us wait around too long. I remember saying to Paul that I was enjoying it so far. I took another Powergel, but my Camelbak pipe was now frozen solid. I could unscrew it and drink, but instead dug out the water bottle and removed the sock. It was perfect and I drank plenty of water. We all felt great at this point and there was never a question of moving on to Uhuru Peak. We'd bagged the green certificate of Gilman's, now we were going for gold! So off we went along the path from Gilmans skirting the crater. Even in the darkness, you could sense some fairly decent drops to your right. The path is well defined and easy to follow, although the guides get nervous when you stray too close to the edge. It is certainly easier walking again. A short while later and we had progressed to the wider ridge as we moved in single-file. First Christopher, then myself, Paul and finally Joseph. Both Paul and I felt great again and were totally warm and comfortable. We could see the torchlight processions from the parties ascending up from the Barafu camp up to Stellar Point in front of us. We all merged into each other as we carried on together towards Uhuru Peak. It seemed almost instant but I suddenly had a desire to fall asleep. I couldn't help it. Sleep felt as if it was consuming me. I struggled to focus on Christopher's heels in front of me. The sun was starting to light the skies but I wasn't interested. I was so tired I lost all perspective and moved forward purely mechanically. 2 steps, eyes closed, 1 step eyes open, following Christopher in front. I could have laid down and fallen straight to sleep there and then. Paul said I was staggering, so I thanked him for the compliment and told him that he wasn't so bad himself! The 2 steps closed, 1 step open was working to a degree. '5 minutes and we are there' came the wakening words from Joseph. It prompted me to look up - I could see it! The sun was kissing the summit and suddenly the shackles of sleep were gone, as the adrenaline kicked in. Paul grabbed my arm and we took the last few steps together, side-by-side and at 6:45am, we touched the summit plaque together.

All the way from about day 2 we had been joking with Joseph about playing football on the top. He promised us that he had a ball in his rucksack. Time to play! Well it turns out that the guides have a sense of humour. He didn't have one and had been using it as incentive all the way. The views from the top are the most incredible views I have ever seen. The glaciers welded to the mountain are breathtaking. Glaciers, above the clouds on an equatorial mountain and I am witnessing them. In a few years it will all be gone, but my memory via my photo's will cherish that view forever. The traditional summit photo with myself and Paul is the hardest earned photo I have in my collection. Another treasure. Thankyou Joseph, thankyou Christopher, thankyou Paul.

Joseph was again hurrying us to start to move down 'It's not good for you to stay so high' he was explaining. It felt upsetting to leave the place. I needed more time to let it soak in, but I knew he was right. Paul called home (yes - he got a signal). I tried and failed. After a drink and a powergel, we were saying our goodbyes to the summit as we headed back to Gilman's. I felt exhilarated! I know Paul did also. We were making very quick time back down and were soon on the crater rim path in single file, the drop now on our left. I was looking forward to the scree running that I new would follow after the rocky section down from Gilman's. We were moving now at a gallop, passing just a few people going the other way to Uhuru. It was all downhill and no problem. In front lay a small incline of a few paces, nothing more. As I reached it and took my first step upwards I stopped. I was bereft of energy. It was like walking into a wall and I doubled over my walking sticks breathing heavily. I'd totally lost it as I heaved for a decent breath. I rested briefly but sluggishly made it back the relatively short distance to Gilmans. I remember 3 nervous people as I skirted around some of the steep bits. I do remember myself smiling at one point as they all audibly took a deep breath. Gilmans couldn't come quickly enough. Joseph fed me with chocolate and Paul shared his water. We had plenty between us. Their help was wonderful and I knew I needed it. Other than the tiredness, I didn't feel anything else. No headaches, nothing. I trod gingerly amongst the rocks as we descended down, using my sticks for balance through the steeper steps. Nothing too bad though. Gradually the water and chocolate kicked in and I felt the energy levels rising again. We negotiated the rocks and made the scree again. At first I did great. I wasn't running over-fast, but I was certainly moving quicker than the others. I have always enjoyed scree running and was determined to enjoy the biggest scree slope of them all. 1000 metres of it. My legs felt great, even though my energy levels were not at tip-top levels. We descended quickly - even Paul who normally hates the stuff. Myself and Christopher were about 50 metres in front and doing well when I ran out of gas yet again. Paul and Jospeh caught up and we took another short break. I was falling asleep as we rested. Paul reckoned I was out like a light in around 5 seconds flat. Paul stuffed some dextrose tablets in my mouth and we drank some water. 5 minutes later we were off again, Kibo a seemingly impossible distance away, down at the foot of the slope.

It was slower now, but again the water and energy tablets started to kick in. I've never been as tired and still had to walk so far. I knew I could do it though. I conserved more energy this time and took a more sensible pace. I took a few pictures before dropping my camera in the dust, never to work again. Damn. Eventually, after what seemed the longest descent, we made Kibo. It had taken us almost 9 hours from start to finish - which under the circumstances I found amazing. Paul was buzzing, I was knackered. While Paul scoffed lunch, I drank a cup of tea, ate some oranges and popped a Nurofen to quell a bad headache. There was time for a rest and we both took it. How the hell I was going to make it back to Horombo feeling like this I didn't know.

Out of the Middlesex party of 20, only 3 made the summit, with one person having to be stretchered off. Out of the party of 22 Germans, only 7 made it. Sven struggled at Gilman's but Wolfgang did make it to Uhuru, assisted by his guide.

Joseph hurried us to start our journey down to Horombo. I felt awful. Paul helped me pack in rapid time and we started on our way. As we progressed down I started to feel much better, still tired but headache free and fit for the task. We walked slowly, I think it's fair to say, chatting to people on the way up and feeling incredibly proud to say we did it. It seemed like forever to get to Horombo, but eventually we made it. Paul was now the one feeling bad. I had got better with every step. I even managed to find the energy to write the diary as Paul rested. Paul skipped the evening meal as I braved the packed communal hut. After buying the team another round of beers, I went for the meal but managed only the soup and tea, I could not eat any of the rice and fried fritters that were also served. There was a mountain of food and I simply couldn't face it. I felt great in clean clothes after having had a wash (as best as you could at any rate). In the hut again with Wolfgang and Sven we were all soon fast asleep.

Day 6 - 9th Sept 2006 - Hot showers beckon.
The best night's sleep we had. No-one stirred. The previous night I had made a deal with Jospeh that we would set off around 7:30am and skip the planned lunch at Mandara. It almost went to plan as we departed at 7:50am. As we left Horombo, Christopher said that he would catch us up (myself, Paul and Joseph). That was the last we saw of Christopher until we reached the gate! We flew down. The distance simply disappeared as we walked as fast as we could and often mixed it with an odd run. We were keeping pace with the fastest Porters and overtaking some. It's odd, but you feel like you left the mountain when you returned to Kibo - so all we wanted to do from Horombo was hit the hot showers of the hotel - hence the rush. We spent 20 minutes at Mandara for a quick drink and toliet break before continuing on our way. We reached the gate just after noon. We'd not only beaten Christopher down, but we were at the gate ahead of our bags - we'd managed to beat our Porters. After signing out we hit the road and made our way back to the Springlands hotel. We paid the tips to Joseph and got a round of beers in. The taste was exquisite! Paul handed over his head-torch and I gave a fleece away, as well as all the spare purification tablets, Nurofen and Diamox. Joseph seemed to appreciate it. And that was the end of a hard but wonderful walk. I'd do it again, but a different route next time for variety. I don't think Paul would!

If I had to summarise the experience as briefly as possible, I would say that the walk is one of self-analysis. You intricately analyse everything that your body feels and experiences. It is not a holiday - nothing remotely like a holiday. It's hard work and tough going at times. Your body goes through the mill, especially on the summit ascent. I would not risk making this walk without plenty of practice on the hills. It's one less worry when you know your legs can cope with the walk.

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